Saturday, 24 November 2007

All in a day’s work



In the last year, when we were in England, I’d get up at 6am and arrive in a primary school of my choice by 7-30am ready to start the day. It’s a bit away from the norm here. Every day is different and a few days ago I found myself going off on my own to Region 2, Anna Regina for a day’s work. In truth I was supposed to go with others but that particular project fell through (as they often do) and I’d made arrangements to meet up with some Headteacher trainees and I like to keep my commitments no matter how inconvenient it is. Region Two is goodness knows how many miles up the North Western coast across 2 major rivers.


So, at 4-45am I got up, had my usual porridge and banana (good diabetes food) and at 6am (the same time as in England), I left home. Not on my bike, but in the Ministry vehicle (pronounced vayeekal) with Patrick the driver and Tom Jones for company. Driving through Georgetown, most people were just waking up – that is the street people in the doorways, in cardboard boxes and anywhere that would provide them with a little shelter from the sun that hits Guyana about 5-30am at this time of year. If ever I felt privileged to have what I have, it was then. Fifteen minutes and we were at the entrance to the floating bridge across the Demerara – the longest floating bridge in the world over the river that gave the sugar its name. Off the other side and a record 35 minutes to Parika, the entrance to the Essequibo River where all of the bananas, the melons, plantains and a thousand and one other local products arrive early in the morning ready for market before most people have even opened their eyes. A bit different from the Croydon Flyover!


40 minutes in a ridiculously fast speedboat with spray equal to any surfer’s dream and we are entering Supernam where an array of local bus and taxi drivers spot the “Whitey” and think he has enough money to hire them all! No, not really, just on a local wage and my transport from Region 2 is waiting for me 1 hour and three quarters early. Unusual for Guyana but not unusual for my guide and contact Mr Persaud, one of my Master Trainers, whose attention to detail surpasses the rest of Guyana put together. In 2003, he was voted the best Headteacher running the best school in Guyana. What an honour and a privilege to be with him. He’s a Hindu, a Pandit and a Justice of the Peace and he gave up a special Hindu celebration to ensure that I was comfortable. It makes you feel very humble. Thirty minutes later and we were at his home where he gave me breakfast and was given a very warm welcome by his wife. Another thirty minutes later and we were at the Education Office meeting the Regional Educational Officer.


We arranged to visit some schools and firstly went to Anna Regina Multilateral School, had a discussion with the Head who had been a trainee on the course I supervise and I asked for a look around the school. Five minutes later, a teacher came to me and told me the children are ready for me – 30 second notice of an assembly for 1,100 boys and girls! Well, I delved into my store of assemblies in the recesses of my brain and away I went. Lovely kids!

Then, off to an even larger Primary school where I met up with some HT trainees and the Head and after an hour, back to Mr Persaud’s for lunch cooked by his niece – curried chicken, dhal, salad and fresh fruit. They’re vegetarian, so they went out of their way to make me feel welcome.


Then off to Abram Zuil Secondary school, just down the road, Mr Persaud’s school, from where he retired last year, to meet with the Head, the staff and 24 Trainee Heads who had come from all over the region to listen to what I had to say about Leadership and Financial Management. Two hours later, I was whisked off back to Supernam for the return speedboat. Well, the day’s ebbing and flowing, a thousand speedboats, the tide, the sun, the banana boats and the consequences of the rain on the waves and wash had had a serious effect on the ability of the boat to stay in a straight line or even make contact with the water. It was exciting to say the least and an hour “under the tarp to keep dry” resulted in a soggy Stephen making his way through Stabroek Market searching for a minibus home.

I arrived back exactly 12 hours after I left but, oh my word, what a day and

“It’s all in a day’s work”.


Sunday, 4 November 2007

Cecelia's Dinner

Last Friday, one of the landladies who lives in Station Street, or should I say Stayshon Street as you have to call it if you want to be understood, invited all of the volunteers to share a superb dinner with her. It was all vegetarian and full of excellent flavours.

Amongst other things were potato balls, curried bora, roti, fish balls and the piece de resistennce - a dish in cocunut milk with sweet potato, plantain, yam etc etc. - a culinary delight. We all had a great time.

Here are most of the Georgetown Volunteers.

Back Row - Mira, Meg, Bill (Meg's Partner just visiting), Stephen, Mary, Deepan, Rob with Camilla in front, Petra in front of Camilla with her friend Rudi behind and Hans who works with us.
Front Row - Hannah, Nicolette, Cecelia (the hostess) and Martin

The only ones missing are Peter, Amber and Helen

New Volunteers Arrive - August 2007


It's always exciting when the new volunteers arrive to take the places of those who have left. This group were no exception. Mary and I were asked if we would meet some of them in the airport. We agreed and got to Georgetown airport about 10pm to meet Nicolette and Martin. The only problem was that VSO didn't give us any more details than their names. We didn't know flight numbers, times or even which part of the world they were coming from. We sort of guessed UK, Australia, Uk or Canada but that's a large area. The clue was in the names.

There were two possibilities of planes they could have been on. One had been cancelled and the other a little late. But out came the pasengers and no Nicolette and Martin. At 11-30pm we were told there was another flight coming in at 12-15am so we waited but no Nicolette and Martin. We felt such fools when we asked officials and they asked for the details and we couldn't tell them. And we were wearing our new VSO T shirts and had made a small welcome banner.





On the left is Leena, our Education Programme Manager and on the right is Arlene, our Country Director






Eventually, thanks to Caribbean Star we found out that they had been held up in Port of Spain and would be coming the next morning. By the way, they were from just outside of Toronto, Canada and had emigrated there from the UK in the seventies.



Setting off to go and discover the Creek

We went to the Rima and 1-30pm and told them they wouldn't be coming and at 7am set off again for the airport. On the way there, we were told they had got a lift and so didn't need to go. Frustrated with an unused banner we went to work. Later in the day we heard that their lift had fallen through and they had to get a taxi. What a fiasco but they're here now and very nice people!



Even more rain Forest!

In fact ther're all nice - Nicolette, Martin, Hans (works in our office), Teddy, Nessa, Helen, Cecelia, Tessie, Janette, Camilla, Mira who is into her 10th year of volunteering.
We volunteered to do the in country orientation - "Living and working in Guyana". This involved going to Splashmins Creek for the weekend. It was a very large resort and we were practically the only ones there. Great news as the week before there had been 10,000 people there. We stayed in a luxury house by Guyana standards - AC and no nets as well as hot water and the biggest bed you ever did see. It was nice for us, having been here without luxury for a few months but we thought it a bit OTT for new volunteers who had only just come from home.
We prepared for our training session for 1 1/2 days with an all singing, all dancing PowerPoint presentation only to find that there was no electricity in this very up market auditorium. To this day no-one has seen the presentation. That's Guyana!



Madewini Gardens - a little more Guyanese than Splashmins

The next day we went to Madewini Gardens - another creek but this time less ostentatious and more Guyanese. We had a lovely meal there and a relaxing afternoon. However, we only got there by the strength of our muscles. We all had to push the bus!



I couldn't push the bus because I had to take the picture!

The next Wednesday, Allende and I took the volunteers on the shopping tour. That's when you really find out what Guyana is like. I remember my eyes being out on stalks on that trip so we were keen to do it for the new volunteers.


Splashmins Resort
A week later, Hans Neienhuijsen, a Dutch volunteer started in our office. The next day we deserted him to come to England for a month. And all that's history!!! He's turned out to be a good "drinking partner".

Rockview July 2007

I know this is a little late but better “late than never” and it really needs to be recorded. What better than to give you an extract from Mary’s diary of 29th June. “It’s the way she tells ‘em”. So here goes.

Our Rockview adventure. What a place! We arranged for the taxi to collect us a little early so that we could be sure of getting to Ogle Airport by 9am. We should have known better. We did not start check-in until 10am and we did not take off until 10-30am. We flew in a small 12 seater plane and the journey was remarkably smooth. We were given juice and a packet of biscuits before we boarded. In proportion – look out BA. The landing strip at Rockview was exactly that – a short strip of gravel.

From the minute we landed we were made extremely welcome by the family and staff. Rockview is the brainchild of Colin Edwards, a former VSO and a very interesting person. He has been married three times and has 7 children- two Brazilian, two English and three Amerindian. He was born in the Basque region of France and had a Basque mother and an English father. After VSO he travelled to South America, lived in Brazil and finally settled in Guyana. He brought his parents to live here and they are buried in the garden where they can be seen from the original Rockview.

Everything about the place is amazing but the two things that strike you most, apart from the hospitality of the people are the cleanliness and the quietness. The rooms are pretty and we have discovered the joys of a hammock, although I managed to roll right out when I first got in.

We were also quite active. On the second day we went on the nature walk and on Sunday we went on the Iwokrama Canopy Walk in the rain forest. We also had a gentle stroll around Rockview and were very impressed by the fruit and vegetable gardens and the fruit trees. Rockview is almost self sufficient. It has a motley crew of pets as well as cows and horses. Stephen and Allende tried their skill as cowboy / girls. It was a real joy to be able to use the pool and on all three occasions we had it to ourselves apart from the children.

All the children are delightful and very comfortable with adults. We also visited the Amerindian village of Surama where the two youngest boys go to school and stay with their grandparents during the week. On Friday we had the place to ourselves which was very nice. On Saturday an American couple, Christine and Tim, joined us and late in the evening Inge and the Spanish brigade came. They were very pleasant and it was great for Allende to be able to speak Spanish. I was the only one who could not speak Spanish. Helen, an EU delegate, was also British but she could speak Spanish. Whist at Rockview we ate better than at any time in Guyana. Everything was freshly prepared and the portions were very generous. It was a good thing that we did not have to be weighed again when we got back on the plane like we did when we came.


Colin is an excellent mine-host and each evening starts with cheese, cashew nuts (which we have seen roasted (see picture), rum and beer and very pleasant music. The mealtime conversations were lovely and interesting. Our stay in Rockview was everything we wanted, relaxing, peaceful, interesting and a bit of luxury. It was very expensive but I think money well spent.

It is a little disconcerting that you can see the pilot take his hands off the controls but even more so when he is not even looking where he is going because he is filling in his log!




Inside the house is like a museum with a collection of artefacts, old books, art and wooden sculpture from over 30 years of travelling. It is a fascinating experience.

Saturday, 3 November 2007

5 weeks back already!



Hi everyone,

First of all let me apologise to all those people, now from all over the world, who have looked at the blog but have not seen any changes for about a month an certainly since we came back from England. I can see which countries those people who look at it are from and it’s great to be connected with friends from all over.

Many people ask how Dad is. Doing well by all accounts. He is back home and going about his life in the same way as he always did and even, dare I say it, a little bit better than before. They seem to have sorted out his tablets and he is enjoying life.

We’ve been back five weeks and time goes so quickly here. The month in England seemed quite long in comparison. Time is a strange thing. It can seem like a long time and a short time at the same time if you follow my meaning. But I think I am beginning to waffle. I was always good at that or so they told me when I did my O levels.

We came back to a lot of work. We knew we had been missed because everyone was waiting for us practically at the door as we went into NCERD. Can Mary do the literacy Radio programmes by January? Will you speak to three HTs’ meetings in Georgetown starting tomorrow? Will you meet 120 trainees and tell them how to do their exams better? Yes, Yes, but let us breathe first. In fact, it became a little heavy at times and I took a few days off work feeling exhausted. Mary has completed a workshop for Primary teachers on Phonics and has been to Region 6 and Region 5 to deliver ones on how to use a set of textbooks. We are booked up for most of November going to Region 10 (Linden where we were supposed to be going originally) and Region 2 across the Essequibo River and round an island on the river that is bigger than Barbados We are evaluating literacy materials. Mary will also go to Region 3 (Vreed en Hoop very close) and Region 6 (New Amsterdam) again. I will assist a Diaspora Volunteer in Region 7 (Bartica) for a couple of days doing a needs analysis of Educational Management. I already know what we will find! So it’s very hectic and we need to slow down a little but they say that Christmas in Guyana will allow us to do that because not a lot happens in the schools. We are thinking of going to St Lucia for New Year but haven’t booked anything yet.

The weather is very hot and there is little breeze and we have hardly seen any rain for months but it is due to start again soon for November and December. As I’m writing, the flock of parrots that land in our garden ten minutes after dawn and ten minutes before dusk have just flown by. They set the dogs barking and the whole world seems to go wild for half an hour.

We had another VSO staying with us from Region 6 last weekend – Cheryl. It was good to catch up. She is the last one remaining from the group who came in the October 2006. She’s here for two years and thinking of extending. Most were on 6 months – 1 year placements and have now returned. Some returned early. But Sandra from Ireland, came back to see us all last week as well. She looks well but she couldn’t stay away from Guyana. It seems you either love it or hate it. We’re in the former group.

After a hectic week at work we are having a restful weekend – we hope! Last night, Cecelia, one of the landladies cooked a full meal for all of the VSOs in Georgetown. It was incredible. I have never eaten any of the things before but every one was more delicious than the rest. It’s amazing what flavours and textures you can get without using any meat or fish at all! We’ve often had to cook veggie here (or Viggie as they call it in the Pizza Hut by mistake) and would like to think we are getting better at it. Many of the volunteers are vegetarian.

Next weekend we have booked to go The Toucan Inn. It is in Region 3. It is a guest house and museum with a small swimming pool. We hope to catch up on some rest. We went there before for the VSO Forum and it’s a great place to “chill”. Perhaps the next blog will be from there.

Today we will go shopping for some essentials – including weighing scales to make sure we don’t put all the weight back on. The rest is mundane. No church or coffee after church tomorrow as we are hoping to lie in to catch up but I suppose the dogs, the birds, the landlady, the frogs, the brush lady, the music man, the minibus, the ice cream
man, the hackers and slashers or some such Sunday pass timers will wake us up before 5am!!! Watch this space!!!

Tuesday, 30 October 2007

Just a few photos from our trip to England

I've noticed that quite a few people have been looking at the blog but I haven't been keeping it up - maybe it's pressure of work!!!!
So, just to keep you going until I make the next post, here are a few photos from England and our trip home. There should be another post soon as I'm working on it.
Mary writing her diary in Barbados airport waiting for the next flight.

We hired a small Peugeot for the month we were home.



My sepia version of the old Brighton Pier just before sunset.


Truro Cathedral from the square when I visited my sister Irene in Cornwall.


The Cathedral from the West Side
Lands End - Cornwall

Church from the main street in Redruth, Cornwall

House boat on the Kennet and Avon Canal where we cycled
Just to prove that I cycled in England as well as Guyana.


And what could be more British than this?
The whole trip to England was very strange. Somehow it was too early for us to be there because we had only been in Guyana for 7 months. It was great to see everyone - friends - Peter and Angela, Alice and Koby, Jane and Trevor, Dee and Andy to name but a few - family - Matt, Daniel and Lucy, Irene, Ann, John, Eileen, Debbie and families and everyone else. And of course Dad who wasn't that well but we hear is well on the mend now so the trip was worth it in the end. It was great to see Tim and Cath and share their 51st wedding anniversary with them.
Special mention to Hannah and Dave and Miranda for a great evening talking about Guyana.
And a Special Special mention to the Lady Foxy, the King's Sweet Woman who entertained us, fed us and put us up in her Chester Castle!!!!!
The next post will be about the first month back. How time flies!

Thursday, 20 September 2007

Latest News

Hi everyone,

Good news on Dad. The procedure went very well and everyone seems pleased with the outcome. There is a possibility he could be out of hospital before we leave which would be great. They're still hopeful about doing the new Dutch procedure in the next month or so.

In a week we will be winging our way back to Guyana and we are both looking forward to it very much. Can't give lots of personal replies to emails at the moment because we are in the library and are limited for time. Thanks to all who replied!!!

Stephen and Mary

Wednesday, 19 September 2007

News from Old England

Hi Everyone,

No pictures this time but just by way of an update on what we are doing in Sunny Britain.

First things first - Dad. Well it has been like a roller coaster and it's still not over. As you know, we acted on the information that we had at the time which was that he was having an imminent operation which had significant risks so we had to see him before he had it. Georgetown and Barbados airports did not help our passage with their antics and we spent 90 minutes queuing to go through immigration at Timheri (go slow or something) and I had to resort to telling the Chief Immigration Officer what I thought of what was going on and he kindly ushered us through the VIP way which enabled us to catch our plane. Barbados was worse including 90 mins for immigration and another 90 minutes for EVERY bag to be searched. They said they were looing for wooden objects to make sure they were safe to go through. They were actually being very bloody minded about it all. The rest of the trip was without event.

However, I digress. Dad lay in hospital for two weeks without so much of a change of medication. He moved to St George's in Tooting which was better but it transpires that the original operation could never really have taken place. After 2 and a half weeks they said it was not his heart and they may be able to do something with the medication. Great News., However, on Friday last they did another test and lo and behold we were back to square one. Needed Heart Sugery. They gave us the options and he decided he didn't want the big operation but would wait for the less obtrusive Dutch one that could happen within 1 - 3 months. In the meanwhile they are, propbably as we speak, giving him a procedure through keyhole in preparation for the Dutch operation (Dutchteam coming to England). If it works it will give him 3 months or so while he is waiting for the next. So everything is very up and down at the moment.

As for the rest of the time, it has been a bit of an emotional roller coaster as well. We are living in Dad's flat which is lovely but we are not ready to be pensioners just yet. I have been to Cornwall to see my sister Irene and visited Truro, Land's End and Redruth of all places. The weather was the best England has experienced this year. Bright blue skies and a perfect temperature. I visited our friends Peter and Angela in Swindon, planning to return to them today which we have had to cancel for obviou reasons. I went cycling along the Kennet and Avon Canal on Saturday and have sampled several cream teas.

So we are back to the flat. Saw Hannah and Dave and Miranda yesterday in Hannah's beautiful house in Crystal Palace and hope to see Ann Thomas (Her Ladyship) on Sunday. The days are ticking away. We have an 51st anninversary Mass and meal to go to and we have hardly seen the boys and must fit that in.

Really can't wait to get back to Guyana. Have really missed it from the beginning. But a lot still to sort out here. Due to return in the early hours of Friday 28th Sept. all being well.

So thanks to all those who've been in touch.

Love to all

Stephen (and Mary who is in the hospital) (I couldn't go because I had to have my own blood tests but will meet her later)

PS have had tooth ache for three weeks and had an extraction yesterday but it still HURTS.